https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/gpz-7000-ground-balance.jpg 758 758 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2018-04-04 11:09:382018-04-04 11:09:38Minelab GPZ 7000 Tips for Better Ground Balance
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/s-l1600.jpg 1200 1200 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2018-03-28 13:58:432018-03-28 13:58:43Using the Ring Stretcher/Sizer, Enlarger Kit
a) Wooden stand
NOT FOR RINGS WITH STONES. Not to worry about your size… you will know if your ring fits on the top/first highest “bench.” If your ring is too small to slide on the first/highest up bench, your ring is too small for this machine. (Smaller rings have less surface area to “give” so you are safer at a jeweler with small, or low karat rings. The higher the gold or silver content, the safer and better it will stretch. High karat gold such as 18k., is quite a bit more malleable than say 10k.
1. CAUTION IS WARRANTED: These are precision made machined parts. Take care of them and they can be passed down in your will. Keep them in a protective box, away from children, there are sharp edges, this is no toy. This is a great tool at an amazing price Keep the parts lightly oiled and in a dry place. Do not let the drive rod stored down inside the expanding collet. Light rust from moisture in the air could cause it to seize, ruining its accuracy. As I said…these are precision machined parts, keep them lightly lubricated in a drawer in the house as I do.
2. There are 3 parts…
a) Wooden stand
b) Expanding Collet
c). Drive/Ram Rod
3. The operation of expanding a ring is simple enough and straight forward. HOWEVER…CAUTION IS ADVISED! You certainly do not want to ruin your wife’s wedding band, from her grandmother. Do this work with a clear, rested mind…with no distractions whatsoever. You need a good solid work surface, well lit.
You MUST have a brass hammer. Do not use a carpenter’s hammer that will be too light a blow, with too small a head, that could miss hitting the top of the ram rod squarely, causing the hammer to slide down the Collet, hitting and most likely seriously damaging the ring! Borrow, rent, or buy a heavy brass hammer with a wide head. Brass gives a smooth, even impact. Not reflecting the impact back like steel.
4. Let’s Begin! Use the wood stand…it does have a purpose! The drive rod extends out the bottom of the collet during sizing. The stand gives you that room below.
5. Place the collet on the stand, making sure it is sitting level and solid on a good work bench or even a good piece of wide wood on the level floor of the garage.
6. Place the collet with the LARGE KNURLED (cross hatch grip pattern) END DOWN into the wood stand. Correct end up, it will look like a Christmas tree with the bigger expanding levels at the bottom.
7. NOW THE CAREFUL, CAUTIOUS PART! Pay attention please… slide your ring down on to the —lowest/smallest diameter “bench.” SQUEEZE THE COLLET COLLARS (grooved sections) TOGETHER…with your fingers, to allow you to slide the ring down as far as possible, resting on the LOWEST “BENCH” IT WILL SLIDE ON TO. NOW THE COLLET COLLARS WILL HOLD THE RING IN PLACE, WHEN YOU RELEASE YOUR GRIP. VERIFY THE RING IS BEING HELD IN PLACE BY THE COLLARS.
Now (with the entire work area covered with soft rags, towels, etc)., but NOT under the wood stand, carefully lift out the collet from the stand, (making sure the ring is held in place) because now we will make an important adjustment.
You do NOT want to size your ring with it resting down against the bench lower edge. Instead…carefully slide the ring up just a hair…like 1/16” of an inch…just away from resting on the lower edge to prevent fine unwanted marks! But also NOT protruding ABOVE THE TOP EDGE OF THE BENCH EITHER! Keep the ring EVEN on the bench all around. You might wonder why all this caution in aligning the ring on the bench, but there will soon be STRONG FORCES AT WORK!
(The ring must be cleaned inside of any dirt, grime, sand, etc., BEFORE POSITIONING THE RING ON THE BENCH). Especially if this is a metal detecting find! CLEAN IS A MUST! A few grains on sand on the inside could cause the ring to stretch unevenly!
8. With the ring correctly positioned on the lowest possible bench, carefully replace the collet in the wood stand, wide end down again.
9. Lightly lubricate with thin oil, the shaft of the ram rod, to prevent galling. (Metal to metal stress wearing, that could throw off the precision accuracy.
10. Gently slide the ram rod down into the collet. Verify ALL IS CORRECT AND READY! WITH A SOLID, LEVEL SURFACE, WITH GOOD LIGHTING… LET’S DO THIS!!!
11. Gently give a light tap, squarely on the head of the ram rod to tension up the collet. RE-VERIFY THAT THE RING IS LEVEL ON THE BENCH, NOT SITTING ON THE BOTTOM EDGE, NOR EXTENDING UP BEYOND THE UPPER BENCH EDGE! This is very important for an even stretch.
12. Now give it a solid blow. Learning your aim and stance. You must not miss the head of the ram rod!!! Repeat with a couple more hard, accurate blows. Now carefully pull the collet out of the stand, keeping it over your protective rags, and carefully drive the ram rod BACK OUT FROM THE BOTTOM END THAT WAS IN THE STAND. You will see the ram rod possibly extending out the bottom of the collet. If not…take a punch and hammer and tap it back out. But be careful for the ring -flying free- when the collet arm tension is released. Do this carefully and SLOWLY the first time!
13. Now set the collet back in the stand and slide the ring down onto the collet arms, compressing them again with your fingers, and check for progress! If the ring looks the slightest bit out of round, or damaged on the edges…STOP!!! Take your ring to a jeweler to be on the safe side.
14. REPEAT THE ABOVE STEPS, CAREFULLY ALIENING THE RING ON THE COLLET BENCH…SLOW AND STEADY. Do not rush the job! Quality work takes time!
GOOD LUCK…ALWAYS START OFF SLOW UNTIL YOU DETERMINE HOW WELL AND HOW FAST YOUR DIFFERENT RINGS ARE STRETCHING. EVERY RING WILL STRETCH AT A DIFFERENT RATE AND EFFORT. AGAIN…GO SLOW.
IN NO WAY ARE WE RESPONSIBLE FOR ACCIDENTS OR DAMAGE TO YOUR RINGS OR PERSONAL INJURY FROM USING THIS APPARATUS.
(PREFERABLY…if you have an old ring to practice on FIRST…then do so).
These directions written by a customer of SERIOUS DETECTING (Sebastian Steve) who purchased and used this equipment with •great success• on a gold 18 karat men’s wedding band, recovered by the author from an 1870s Great Lakes Steamship, resting in 205 feet of water.
Thank you and Good Luck!
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Have you recently purchased a Minelab Equinox Metal Detector?
Minelab now has a online form to register your Equinox. You can click here to register your metal detector.
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Here is a video overview of some of the accessories available for the Minelab CTX 3030 metal detector.
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Here is a video providing tips for the Minelab CTX 3030 metal detector.
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In this video, Phil Beck explains the revolutionary discrimination features of the CTX 3030 treasure detector. Target Trace, Target Trace Pinpoint, Tone ID Profiles, Ferrous-Coin Separation and Ground-Coin Separation are discussed.
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Getting Started with the Minelab CTX 3030 video will show you the difference between the two model variants: the Standard and Starter Pack. Assembling the CTX 3030 is a breeze and the video shows you just how simple it is to put together and charge the supplied Li-Ion battery. You’ll see a quick overview of the control panel, and how the buttons and functions have been laid out to make the detector intuitive and easy to use.
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With accurate target identification and discrimination – you’ll find more treasure and dig less trash using a Minelab Treasure Detector!
From the entry level GO-FIND 20 to the ultimate CTX 3030, Minelab has the right treasure detector for you.
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Testing for Gold
Scratch the piece to be tested over the surface of the black stone provided, press well so as to leave a visible deposit, preferably a line of one to one-half inches long.
Please note: For the most accurate testing it is recommended that you become familiar with comparative testing using standard gold testing needles.
For highest sensitivity place a scratch line with a gold test needle next to the scratch line of the metal you are testing.
Compare the speed at which the scratches dissolve. If the test scratch dissolves more quickly than the needle scratch, it is a lower karat than the needle.
Place a drop of the 10K solution to the scratch made. If the solution dissolves the scratch on the stone. it means the object is less than 10K gold or not gold at all. If the, solution leaves the scratch intact, it means the object being tested is 10K or greater than 10K.
The scratching and testing is repeated with the 14K solution.
If the Solution dissolves the scratch on the stone, it means the object is less than 14K gold (if the scratch dissolves slowly and leaves rusty color particles, it is probably 12k gold).
If the solution leaves the scratch intact, it means the object being tested is 14K or greater than 14K.
Caution: Many objects are marked 14K, but were fabricated prior to 1982 when it was legal to mark items 14K, but, in reality, the gold was 13.5K. When testing 13.5K gold, the 14K solution will not dissolve the scratch, but it will make it lose its brightness and it will turn it into a yellow-rusty color.
The scratching and testing is repeated with the 18K solution and the 22K solution (if available) until the karat of the object is determined.
Remember that when the solution being used dissolves the scratch slowly and leaves rusty color particles it is probably two karats lower than the solution being used.
On items of heavy weight and volume such as chains, coins, etc, where plating could hide the true metal, it is recommended that a deep notch in the test piece be made and the testing be made with the metal inside the piece.
Testing for Silver
Scratch the piece to be tested over the surface of the black stone provided.
Press well so as to leave a LARGE AND THICK visible deposit, preferably a line of one to one-half inches long.
Place a drop of the RED silver solution to the scratch made.
The color reaction of the solution with the metal scratch will be as follows: (Take into consideration that the background of the test stone is black).
The test solution should yield the following colors for each metal:
- Fine Silver (.999) = Bright Red
- Silver 925 = Dark Red
- Silver 800 = Brown
- Silver 500 = Green
Note: With the silver solution, it is possible to test directly on the piece being tested, however, the solution will dull the polishing of the piece, and leave a mark where the acid was placed.
Testing for Platinum and White Gold
Scratch the piece to be tested over the surface of the black stone provided, press well so as to leave a large and thick visible deposit, preferably a line of one to one-half inches long.
Transfer a drop of the platinum test solution to the scratch made. Take into consideration that the background of the test stone is black.
Observe the color of the material. Platinum test liquid can also be used for 18k and 14K white gold.
If the material on the stone is platinum, it should keep its white, bright color.
In the case of 18K, the material on the stone should start changing to a light bronze color in about 3 minutes.
In the case of 14K white gold, the material on the stone should disappear in about 15 seconds.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/a-copy-1.jpg 907 1200 Serious Detecting https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Serious Detecting2017-09-07 09:54:242017-09-07 16:35:41The Gripworks Bucket Handle Grips & How to Use Them!
The bucket handle grips from THE GRIPWORKS are an excellent solution for reducing hand fatigue, numb fingers, or arthritis pain. These grips spread the load onto more of the surface area of your hand, letting you carry heavy objects longer and pain free. This will reduce the possibilities of any arm, shoulder, or back pain or injuries.
How To Use Them
THE GRIPWORKS handles are two pieces that are connected by 4 clips (2 inside each piece). There are two plastic posts that are located on the inside of each piece.
These need to be broken off in order to connect the two pieces together.
After these are broken, simply connect the clips over a handle that will fit inside THE GRIPWORKS, like shown in the image below. One-Time use only, will NOT come apart again if accidentally closed.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2017-06-09 09:15:502017-08-29 15:38:39Garrett AT PRO Metal Detector Manuals
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2016-07-21 16:39:142017-06-10 13:57:28How Deep Does My Metal Detector Go?
The depth that a metal detector can detect a target depends on a number of factors:
Large targets can be detected deeper than small targets.
Circular shapes like coins and rings can be detected deeper than long thin shapes like nails.
A horizontal coin (e.g. lying flat) can be detected deeper than a vertical coin (e.g. on edge).
High conductive metals (e.g. silver) can be detected deeper than low conductive metals (e.g. lead).
Another factor is the size of the search coil. Search coils come in a wide range of sizes and shapes, including 4″, 6″, 8″, 9.5″, 12″ and 15″. There are also differences in the configuration of the coils inside the search coil producing different shape search patterns. The larger the search coil, the deeper it can detect larger metal items. However, it is more difficult to use in trashy areas with less depth to find small metal items. Smaller search coils provide better separation in high-trash environments and better sensitivity to small metals.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2016-07-20 16:30:442017-06-10 15:00:12Where to Start Gold Prospecting?
The best places to detect for gold nuggets are where gold has previously been found, and surrounding areas with similar geology. So again, do your research to find out about historic goldfields. Such as:
- Tailings from goldmine sites
- Old diggings (areas where prospectors dug for gold in the 1800s)
- In or near streams where gold can be panned
- Dry-blowing locations (usually in arid areas where water was scarce)
- Old reef mine dumps and slopes
There is plenty of gold waiting to be found. Now that you know where to search, all you need is a good gold detector to get started.
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When detecting for coins, relics or jewelry, use your imagination – anywhere people are likely to have left things behind – you are likely to make good finds! Also, don’t forget the places right under your feet; you never know what you might dig up even in your own backyard. To help get you started here is a list of locations that are generally more productive for finding coins, relics or jewelry:
- Showgrounds and racecourses
- Picnic areas
- Camping grounds
- Swimming holes
- Parks, playgrounds and school yards
- Ploughed fields
- Ghost towns and ancient town sites
- Old homes and public buildings
- Sports grounds
- Jetties and piers
There is still plenty of treasure to be found in many interesting locations around the world.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2016-07-18 16:28:232017-06-10 14:08:50Getting Started with Your New Metal Detector
Once you’ve made the decision to buy a new metal detector and get home with it, you no doubt can’t wait to get started with some detecting. But where exactly should you start? You can take your detector with you practically anywhere – the opportunities are endless and limited only by your imagination.
Finds can be made anywhere; you only need to take a look at any recent detecting magazine or website and you will see that there is an abundance of amazing finds being made. This shows there are still plenty of treasures waiting to be found, but some sites are more productive than others, so it helps to know the best type of places to go detecting. All it takes is a little bit of research to identify the most promising and productive goldfields or treasure hunting sites to detect.
There are many different types of valuable objects you can find with your new metal detector, such as rare coins, ancient relics of past civilizations, lost jewelry and gold nuggets. Nuggets are generally found in different places to where you would typically find coins, relics or jewelry, so where you go detecting depends greatly on what you would like to find.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2016-07-16 13:08:352017-06-13 11:40:05Metal Detectors: All About Ground Balance
Ground Balance is a variable setting that increases detection depth in mineralized ground. This ground may contain salts, such as in wet beach sand or fine iron particles, such as in red earth. These minerals respond to a detector’s transmit field in a similar way that a target does. Due to the much larger mass of the ground compared to a buried target, the effect of mineralization can easily mask small targets. To correct this the Ground Balance setting removes the responding ground signals, so you clearly hear target signals and are not distracted by ground noise.
There are three main types of Ground Balance:
- Manual Ground Balance – Manually adjust the Ground Balance setting, so the minimum amount of ground signal is heard.
- Automatic Ground Balance – The detector automatically determines the best Ground Balance setting. This is quick, simple and more accurate than a manually set Ground Balance
- Tracking Ground Balance – The detector continuously adjusts the Ground Balance setting while detecting. This ensures that the Ground Balance setting is always correct.
Minelab detectors use exclusive advanced technologies for superior ground balancing capabilities that cannot be matched by any other detectors.
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What are DD coils?
A Double-D coil has two overlapping wire windings in the shape of two D’s. The benefits of a Double-D coil are stability (especially in heavily mineralized ground), good depth, sensitivity and a very thorough search pattern requiring less overlap.
When used with GPX detectors, Double-D coils (unlike Mono loop coils) are able to discriminate between ferrous and non-ferrous targets when Iron Reject is activated. They are also more stable when used on wet salt beach sand and in electrically noisy environments.
When used with X-TERRA detectors, Double-D coils perform quieter than Concentric coils in mineralised ground and are therefore well suited for gold prospecting.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2016-07-14 10:11:452017-06-13 11:40:26How Do Metal Detectors Work?
Metal detectors work by transmitting an electromagnetic field from the search coil into the ground.
Any metal objects (targets) within the electromagnetic field will become energized and retransmit an electromagnetic field of their own. The detector’s search coil receives the retransmitted field and alerts the user by producing a target response.
Minelab metal detectors are capable of discriminating between different target types and can be set to ignore unwanted targets.
While metal detectors are generally highly efficient in terms of depth of response. A deep metal detector may occasionally be needed for areas with very deep sediment and / or long history of settlement.
https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png 0 0 Ewout Kozel https://cdn.seriousdetecting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sdlogo.png Ewout Kozel2016-07-05 16:49:352017-06-13 16:06:28Metal Detector Search Coil Configurations
The three most common types of coil windings are Concentric, Double-D (DD), and Monoloop. The difference between these coil types is the pattern the wire is wound within the coil.
A Concentric coil has an inner circle and an outer circle wire winding. Its search pattern is cone shaped and can be useful for accurately pinpointing the target. Concentric coils tend to be noisier in highly mineralised ground and require more overlap of sweep for thorough ground coverage.
Double-D (DD) Coil
A Double-D coil has two overlapping wire windings in the shape of two D’s (one reversed). The characteristics of a Double-D coil are stability (especially in heavily mineralised ground), good depth, sensitivity and a very thorough search pattern.
When used with a GPX detector Double-D coils (as opposed to monoloop coils) are able to discriminate between ferrous and non-ferrous targets (when Iron Reject is activated). They are also more stable when used on wet salt beach sand and in electrically noisy environments.
Monoloop coils are a special style of coil for Pulse Induction (PI) technology detectors (SD & GPX Series). These coils have one winding of wire around the circumference of the coil, which is used to both transmit and receive. The signal pattern of the Monoloop coil is cone shaped, requiring more overlapping. In extremely heavily mineralised grounds they can be more difficult to ground balance, however they tend to provide slightly better depth than the Double-D coils.
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The most common coil shapes are the conventional solid Round coils, the Elliptical shaped coils and the Open-web coils.
The main reason for the change in shape is to conform to a physical requirement, i.e. the elliptical coil can be pushed around bushes or between stony country easier than round coils.
Open-web coils help cut through water when detecting in water and are lighter for their size.
Conventional round coils are often more stable, higher performing, and are particularly popular when gold prospecting.